Dining out: Salsa Leedos

Published: Friday, June 6, 2008 12:03 a.m. MDT
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Salsa Leedos takes me back, but I'm not sure it's to a place I want to visit.

This is the kind of Mexican food I ate at many of the Mexican restaurants of my childhood and teenage years — '80s Mexican, if you'll indulge me. Think back to when "Mexican" didn't mean the giant-burrito, super-fresh, super-premium ingredients trend that's swept the nation, and you might see what I mean.

I can't say our meal at Salsa Leedos was exactly bad, but it wasn't great, either. Despite the highlights, the overall feeling was ... ho-hum.

Things didn't start off well. We were seated promptly, but when I asked our server a few questions about the menu (one example: "Do you make your own tamales?"), her answers mainly ranged among, "What?" and "I don't know."

We waited a good long time between courses, so it was lucky we had two servings of Salsa Leedos' chips. They make you pay for them, so I guess that's one up-to-date touch. The thin, super-crisp chips were accompanied by medium-heat, picante-like salsa and seasoned refried beans.

I ordered the chicken enchilada, tamale and chili relleno from the build-your-own-platter option, and it arrived smothered in sauce and cheese, to the point that it was difficult to tell where the three separate items were, let alone what they were.

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Once I sorted that out, I enjoyed the rich chili verde sauce covering everything. It livened up the dull, stiff chili relleno and moistened the tasty but too-dry tamale. The chicken enchilada was juicy and flavorful.

My husband had a nice entree, a nightly special in which diners choose three of several options including steak (cooked spicy or just plain broiled), chicken, shrimp and several Mexican favorites. He picked the steak, grilled medium-well as usual, plus a chicken breast with chipotle barbecue sauce and a cheese enchilada.

It was a nice plate, though the chicken had an odd, spongy texture. The steak was juicy and tender, and the enchilada subtle, simple and well-made. We both had the de rigueur beans and Mexican rice on the side; both were palatable, though neither was anything special.

The kids ordered from the extensive children's menu, choosing south-of-the-border items such as burritos and mac and cheese from the American side. I like the choice Salsa Leedos gives kids of rice and beans or fruit; most of my kids took the fruit.

For dessert, we had sopaipillas, satisfyingly chewy and yeasty but not at all crisp, like I like them best. They came with pre-prepared pouches of honey butter, the size of ketchup packets, that made me wish for the fresh kind, mixed on site.

We also tried the house-special cheesecake chimichanga, cheesecake rolled in a tortilla, then deep-fried and slathered with chocolate and caramel sauces and cream. It tasted pretty good, even for a non-cheesecake person like me, but it was hard to eat. Every time we tried to separate a piece from the whole, melted cheesecake squished out everywhere. In the end, we cut the shell into pieces and used them to mop up the cheesecake and sauce.

Recent comments

I cant believe the review.. I think Travis(the owner) Is going to...

Steve Jensen | June 18, 2008 at 1:14 p.m.

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